First Post, Rumney “Schist-uation”

Welcome. This will be my first post of my blog…

Hi, my name is Lucas Uchida, I’ve been climbing for roughly 3-4 years, and train at Boulderz Climbing Centre. The reason I’ve decided to make this blog is to help create a timeline of important events through out my climbing career, and for me to be able to reflect on those experiences, and hopefully learn from them.


During thanksgiving weekend I went on a trip to Rumney, NH with my friend Nathan, and my Dad. It was a 2.5 day trip, and the weather was supposed to be good, so I was pretty psyched to go. We stayed at this place called “The Common Cafe” which allows hostel/lodging for 25 dollars a night.

The first day I warmed up on Flying Hawaiian 5.11b, and then went straight to the hard stuff. Nathan sent Butt Bongo Fiesta 5.13a; this stunning line starting with 3 bolts of easy climbing to a tech-y boulder-y head wall. I had tried it but after a few tries I knew it was time to move on and try some of the other routes Rumney had to offer…


Waimea Wall

On the second day we warmed up on All The Way-A 5.10d. I had sent Butt Bongo Fiesta 5.13a, making it my very first 13. I also sent this short, but fun “route” called Bottom Feeder 5.13a. Although it was short, it was super fun, and I would highly suggest giving it a go if you’re there. We also projected Rhythm X 5.13c.


Butt Bongo Fiesta 5.13a


Projecting Rhythm X

The last day was a half day. We woke up early in the morning and packed all of our gear away and got in the car for the last burns. And I’m glad we did. Me and Nathan both did Big Kahuna 5.12d/13a. We had heard the day before that there was an extension of Big Kahuna where you kept climbing past the anchors into this 12b, Techno Surfing, that, rather than stopping halfway up the cliff, allowed you to climb to the top. I had decided to do that…


Big Kahuna 5.12d/13a


Nathan on Big Kahuna

Overall, my trip to Rumney this year was a great one. I accomplished my goal of sending a 13 outdoors, I have come back feeling more confident on rock, and found a project for my self (Rhythm X 5.13c). I’ve come back with a whole new drive to climb outdoors.

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One Response to First Post, Rumney “Schist-uation”

  1. Leslie Timms says:

    Stoked to read about your future rock crushing. Awesome job in Rumney!!

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